Patricia Temples Photography

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My Iceland Adventure, Part 5

When we left the Westfjords we took a ferry to Flatey (Flah’ tee) Island, a beautiful small island with a handful of houses and a hotel.  Hotel Flatey consists of two converted warehouses which accommodate a total of 27 people. My room was a single, small with eaves, but certainly comfortable and suitable for our stay.  The restaurant at the hotel served delicious soups and dinners, and the stay on the island was peaceful and relaxing.

Hotel Flatey

The red and green buildings were Hotel Flatey.

Buildings with hotel on left

Hotel Flatey is on the left side of this image next to the yellow building.

The island has a number of summer homes and places that the seasonal hotel employees stay while working on the island.  The buildings are so colorful.  You could easily walk the entire island and we did so many times.

There are only two couples who live on the island full time.  The remaining activity on the island is for tourists and summer home residents.  I had the good fortune to meet one of the residents, an older lady who told me they live on the island year-round to take care of their sheep.  She calls a friend on Snaefellsness Peninsula who does her grocery shopping for her and puts it on the ferry for her to pick up.  She told me the hardest part about being on the island in the winter is lack of social activity.  She and her husband have four children, eleven grandchildren and seven great-grandchildren who live in Iceland.  The photos of the church with the tractor are of her husband.  I was there to try to get a photo of the church with two buildings that look like they are very close to it, but in fact, they are some distance away.

Church with tractor

Tractor working the land in front of the church

Church, library and tractor

You can see how far apart the church and the library are.

Church at midnight

This photo of the three buildings was taken at 11:44pm.

One interesting thing I learned from the trip to Flatey has to do with the collection of eider down.  I have done a little reading on this and it is fascinating.  The eider duck is plentiful on Flatey and nearby islands. Women harvest the down from nests for use in pillows and comforters. Due to hormonal changes during the egg-laying period, the females sheds this incredibly light and soft down into the nest. This leaves an egg-warming spot on her belly, but the down also provides protection for the eggs and young from predators.  Eider down is the only down on the market that comes from a live wild female bird, and it is not plucked from the bird, so it does no harm to collect it.  When the down is removed from the nest, the collectors replace it with grasses and hay they have carried for that purpose.  The majority of eiderdown on the world market comes from Iceland.  One comforter with eiderdown filling may contain raw material from over 60 nests.  I didn’t get a good photo of the down because at the time I didn’t realize how significant it was.  I was mainly interested in the eggs in the nest.  We were walking down a path beside a fence, and startled the mother off the nest.  I snapped a quick photo so she would return.  I wish I had been more careful.

My Iceland Adventure, Part 4

The Westfjords or West Fjords is a large peninsula in northwestern Iceland. The Westfjords are very mountainous; the coastline is heavily indented by dozens of fjords surrounded by steep hills. These indentations make roads very circuitous and communications by land difficult. In addition many of the roads are closed by ice and snow for several months of the year. The cliffs at Látrabjarg comprise the longest bird cliff in the northern Atlantic Ocean and are at the westernmost point in Iceland.We arrived at our hotel, Hotel Latrabjarg, after traversing a winding, narrow gravel road into the middle of nowhere.

Drive in van

Across the water we could see a small community, but when we arrived at our hotel, we were the only ones for miles.  It was great.  The hotel was so comfortable, with large rooms, wonderful showers, a dining room that had old wooden tables and chairs and was more like the dining room of a home than a hotel.  We stayed three nights and did a variety of things while we were there. 

The beach was a a short walk below the hotel and that was our first shooting location. We were photographing arctic terns, because when the sun was behind the cliffs, a black background was perfect for the white terns.  But, alas, I am not a great bird photographer, especially when they are in flight.  I found the terns to be difficult because they flew fast, darted around in every direction, and they were generally pretty far away from me.  I preferred photographing the Eurasian Oystercatcher, a larger bird whose flight was slower.  Anyway, here are a few bird photos, since that first day that was what it was all about.

Beach near hotel

The beach near our hotel.

The second day at Hotel Latrabjarg, we drove a few miles to Raudasandsbugur, the Red Sand Beach.  What a special location this was.  As we approached the beach, there was a terrific vantage point from on high, but alas, there was no parking for the vans.  However, later, when we returned, the light had improved and we walked a bit to get higher shots.  Wow. 

Red sand beach 1Red sand beach 4Red Sand beach bestRed sand beach with light

In between the two visits to the beach, we stopped at a church. Churches are plentiful in Iceland because property owners know that if they have a church on their land, their taxes are lower.  Churches are frequently painted black with white trim and red roofs, as this one was, and I found them to be beautiful.  I wonder what they would look like in the snow.  In winter when it is dark for 23 out of 24 hours, and there is snow on the ground, it must be amazing.  Someone told us that the snow is very white because there is no pollution, and that what little light is available is reflected on the white snow and gives the appearance of more light in the sky. I’d love to see that.

We stopped sometime along the way at an old house, built in 1907 and vacant since 1962. We photographed there, and I’ll share those another time. Across the road from that house was an old barn, a spring house, who knows?  It was built into a mound so that part of it was underground, with the side with a door above ground.  Here are some views of that interesting building.  Look at that landscape!

Sunken structure 1Sunken structure 2Sunken structure 3

My Iceland Adventure, Part 3

On our long travel day, I took photos from the van, while moving, and we stopped along the way where I got some shots of the landscape.  It varied from mountain scenes and poppies to scenes along the shore line as we approached our destination on the West Fjords.  Enjoy.

Landscape 3 with church and horsesLandscape 2Landscape 4Poppies 2Landscape 5Landscape 6 with horsesLandscape 8Poppies 3Poppies

My Iceland Adventure, Part 2

We spent three days in the area of Lake Myvatn which was created by a large lava eruption 2300 years ago.  On the east side of the lake we visited the Namafjall geothermal field, also known as Hverir.  This was the part of the trip that I found most interesting. The boiling mud pots, the colors of the earth, the steam vents through rock-covered boreholes were fascinating and new to me.  There is a lot of hot steam there, so areas are roped off, but there were plenty of places to photograph activity and to walk for good views.  There is a hiking trail into the mountain, which I used for a few higher shots, but the steepness and the rockiness of the terrain discouraged me from following the trail all the way over the mountain.

Mtn view 1

Fumaroles 1Fumaroles 2Larger view 1Larger view 2

TerrainBlue and tan earth 2Blue and tan earth 1

The mud pots are formed in geothermal area where there is little water.  The water that is available rises to the surface of the soil which is rich in volcanic ash, clay and fine particulates.  The blue color of the water is probably due to silica, and the surrounding tan color of the rock is a wonderful color contrast.

Mudpots 1

This terrain gave us the opportunity to learn about the geothermal energy of Iceland, and one of our outings included a trip to see the fifth largest power plant in the country, Krafla.  The five major geothermal power plants in Iceland produce about 26% of the nation’s electricity.  Geothermal heating meets the heating and hot water requirements of 87% of the buildings in Iceland.  Apart from geothermal energy, 73% of the their electricity is generated by hydro power, and .1% from fossil fuels.  The goal of Iceland is to completely eliminate fossil fuels for power generation, and that will be accomplished in the near future.

Power plant 1Power plant 2Steam plant 2Steam plant

One way that geothermal hot water was demonstrated to me most clearly was with the hot tub at one of the cabins where we stayed.  Our photographer instructor was testing the water for use in a few hours and found it to be cold.  Having had a hot tub at my home, I knew he couldn’t get the temperature high enough for possibly a day by my method.  His solution was to empty the hot tub, refill it with water from underground, and voila, instant hot water!  No chemicals required because the water doesn’t sit in the hot tub for days or weeks as it does here.  In Reykjavik there are underground pipes that carry hot water for heating the streets and sidewalks in winter to melt the snow!

The next post will take us to the western parts of Iceland, a thirteen-hour drive from Myvatn to the area near Latrabarg, the west fjords.

 

 

 

 

My Iceland Adventure, Part I

I had the thrill of a lifetime going to Iceland for a thirteen day adventure.  The major focus of the trip was a Birding and Landscape Photography Tour.  We did so many different things and stayed in such a variety of places that I am having difficulty organizing the trip for this blog.  But, I am going to jump in, posting in several stages.

Today I am going to tell you about our first stop, Myvatn (Me-vah’-tin).  We spent three nights in this beautiful area, exploring along the river Laxa, Lake Myvatn, and at the geothermal areas near Krafla.  The lake is known for its abundance of birds, and thirteen species of ducks nest there.  Many of them are migratory.  The harlequin duck is the duck everyone wanted to see and photograph, and they didn’t disappoint us.  They played on the bank of the river and swam in the bubbles of a small waterfall.
Harlequin ducks

Harlequin Duck

The phalarope is the first bird I photographed in Iceland, and probably the bird I saw the most in every location.  Many other birds were on the river and at Lake Myvatn.

Phalarope

Phalarope

In the photos above, clockwise from top left, are Tufted Ducks, Long-tailed Ducks, a Merganser, a Barrow’s Goldeneye, and a Horned Grebe.

But, of course, I am a landscape photographer, and I had the best opportunities on this trip for beautiful and unusual landscapes.  At the river, snow-capped mountains were the backdrop for beautiful farm buildings.

Lake Myvatn was a small lake that we could walk around in about 1.5 hours at a leisurely pace while stopping to photograph.  Of course, we met sheep along the way.

Lake scene 1Lake scene 2

Read more…

Fishing Memories

It’s Saturday, April 1.  April Fool’s Day to most of us, and opening day of Trout Fishing in Virginia to some of us.  That is, when I was a kid.  This day brings fond memories for me.  When I was about six years old, my dad started taking my brother and me along on his fishing expedition on “Opening Day.”  It didn’t result in much fishing for him, but we kids had a great time.  At home the preparations began with getting the gear together.  The fishing poles had to be reassembled after being put away for the winter.  My dad did all that and I watched.  One curious thing that he did was run the tip of a piece of the pole on the side of his nose, right in the crease near his cheek.  “Daddy, why did you do that?”  He told me that he was getting natural oils off his face to lubricate the part of the pole that slipped into the next piece.  I thought he was the smartest person alive.  After getting the poles ready, digging some worms, and packing our lunch we were ready.  Lunch consisted of cans of Vienna Sausages, Sardines, some crackers and, of course, Pepsi in bottles.   The best.

Off we went to the river bank.  We got set up, Dad helped us bait our hooks at first when we were young, but he quickly taught us how to do it ourselves.  I was never afraid of worms, and saw them as the means to an end…..eating trout!  The factory whistle blew at noon in our small town and everyone started fishing.  Fishermen and women were everywhere.  Sometimes our friends Bob and Mott Martin were with us.  Mott was one of those women who was ahead of her time.  At least I thought so then.  She wore waders and got in the water to do her fishing!!  I didn’t know women did those things and it made an impression that has lasted a lifetime.  She was also my seventh grade teacher for a brief time, but left mid-year to have her first child.  Anyway, here we were, throwing our lines in the water, snagging them on tree branches, losing the hook, tangling the line on every conceivable weed, and my dad was patiently helping us recover, get the line prepared and back in the water.  But, when we caught a fish….it was magic!!  Generally we managed to catch enough to have a meal.  To this day, trout are my favorite fish food.

Today at Graves Mountain Lodge in Madison County, VA they celebrate Heritage Day.  The streams are stocked with fairly large trout and only the kids are allowed to fish.  The look on those kids’ faces when they pull a ten-inch trout out of the water is very special.  There is no whistle denoting the time to start fishing, and they get started about 9am.  It’s a fun day, full of good food and fish.  Nothing can beat those Vienna Sausages, Sardines and Pepsi Colas,  but memories are being made.

 

 

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